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Don't rule out beer for the Thanksgiving table
Published: 11/23/2011 10:15 AM
Last Modified: 11/23/2011 11:24 AM




These observations came from Wes Alexander of Tulsa's Marshall Brewing Co. Beer might sound incongruous for the Thanksgiving table, but give a listen to what Alexander has to say.

"Just like spring, fall brings a physical metamorphosis for our environment," Alexander wrote. "Crisp mornings and changing leaves give way to colder weather and the holidays.

"Perhaps my favorite time during the changing of the seasons is Thanksgiving. Indeed, Thanksgiving is a time of bounty and celebration, so share some American craft beer with your family at your holiday table. Not convinced to try beer at Thanksgiving? History shows that the Pilgrims were forced to stop at Plymouth Rock due to a shortage of beer.

"An entry from the diary of a Mayflower passenger explains, 'We could not now take time for further search...our victuals being much spent, especially our beer...'

"Traditionally, porters and stouts find their way to the market as well as Christmas beers with flavor profiles ranging from evergreen to spices of the season, such as cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla and clove. Here at Marshall Brewing, our winter release is Big Jamoke Porter.

"Our American porter offers roasted malt flavors complemented with bittersweet chocolate and espresso-like flavors and finishing with dry earthy notes. Perhaps the most common question we get about Big Jamoke Porter, 'Is this brewed with chocolate and coffee?' In fact, it is not, however, there is an excellent explanation for those flavors being found in porters and stouts.

"Without going into too detailed explanation of the brewing process, malted barley is one of four main ingredients in brewing beer. Malted barley can be roasted to varying degrees to offer different flavor profiles and color. Contrast the color of pilsners and porters. The difference comes from the roast of the malted barley. Much like the coffee beans, the color and flavor of the final product are affected by the roast of the ingredients. Further, note the similarity in flavor of roasted malted barley to that of the roasted coffee bean. This is due to the caramelization and concentration of flavors in both the coffee bean and the malted barley.

"These winter seasonal beers deserve a place at your Thanksgiving table. The first principle we look at when pairing beer and food is intensity. Consider the typical feast with smoked turkey and ham, gravy, candied yams, your aunt’s green bean casserole and pumpkin pie. To complement these flavors and intensity, porters are an excellent choice. Savory dishes are particularly complemented by the roasted flavors found in Porters, but don’t overlook the sweets. Pumpkin pie is a surprisingly good match with its coalescence of both savory and sweet flavors.

"Additionally, don’t forget about beer as an ingredient. . .Deglaze your turkey roasting pan with a little Porter to add a bit of sweetness to the savory flavors in gravy. Finally, add a stout or porter to your favorite chocolate or fudge cake. Happy Thanksgiving!"


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Tulsa World restaurant critic Scott Cherry is in his second tour of duty with the Tulsa World. He was a sports writer during his first stop, covering college football and basketball. Since returning to the World in 1992, he has been the food writer and now restaurant critic and wine columnist.

Cherry Picks, the Tulsa World restaurant guide, is where you can best see all of his reviews, formatted for your phone, tablet or desktop computer. Check it out at tulsaworld.com/cherrypicks.

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