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It was the hog's head that was missing in that recipe
Published: 8/23/2011 3:28 PM
Last Modified: 8/23/2011 3:28 PM

A couple of weeks ago I ran a Chef's Table recipe from Craig Baxter of Baxter's Interurban that called for scrapple. Baxter said if you can't find scrapple readymade, substitute sausage.

Then I got this email from Ellen Werner:

"I'll give you a pass on the scrapple recipe made with sausage because, as you stated in your article, there are many variations of it. But, like me, who also grew up eating scrapple in Pennsylvania, Lancaster to be exact, Mr. Baxter more than likely had it purchased from a local farmers market, where it was made fresh, starting with a boiled pig's head.

"Every time I visit my family in Lancaster I either eat it at a local restaurant or buy enough to share with my family at Central Market, located in downtown Lancaster.

"This recipe is from 'The Victory Binding of the American Woman's Cookbook,' war time edition, edited by Ruth Berolszheimer and dedicated to Gen. Douglas MacArthur, 1943, published by Consolidated Book Publishers Inc."

So, grab yourself a hog's head and let's do it right:
SCRAPPLE
1 hog's head
4 to 5 quarts cold water
4 teaspoons salt
4 teaspoons pepper
1 teaspoon powdered sage
Yellow corn meal (about 3 cups)
Separate the hog's head into halves. Remove eyes and brain. Scrape head and clean thoroughly. Place in a large kettle and cover with 4 to 5 quarts cold water. Simmer gently for 2 to 3 hours, or until meat falls from bone. Strain grease carefully from the surface; remove meat, chop fine and return to liquid. Season with salt, pepper and sage to taste. Sift in corn meal, stirring constantly, until the mixture is thickened to the consistency of soft mush. Cook slowly for 1 hour over low heat. When sufficiently cooked, pour into greased, oblong pan and move to a cool place until ready to use. Cut into thin slices and fry until crisp and brown.




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Tulsa World restaurant critic Scott Cherry is in his second tour of duty with the Tulsa World. He was a sports writer during his first stop, covering college football and basketball. Since returning to the World in 1992, he has been the food writer and now restaurant critic and wine columnist.

Cherry Picks, the Tulsa World restaurant guide, is where you can best see all of his reviews, formatted for your phone, tablet or desktop computer. Check it out at tulsaworld.com/cherrypicks.

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