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Star gazing
Published: 6/14/2007 12:43 PM
Last Modified: 6/14/2007 12:43 PM

I don't know how other reviewers feel about awarding stars for performances, whether it be food, music or film, but for me it's an agonizing weekly ritual. By the time the stars appear next to a restaurant's name in Friday's Spot, many times I regret I didn't make some higher, some lower.
Adding to this predicament is the knowledge that if I went back for a second visit and a third visit, I most probably would come out with a different set of stars each time. Each visit is a different experience, and I can say with much confidence it will be different than your experience, if not in big ways, then surely in smaller details.
The human factor can't be discounted, either. If I feel I must give average or below stars to a restaurant, it's easier with a national restaurant whose managing partner has to get permission from someone in Topeka for a photo and interview than it is with a mom-and-pop operation struggling to make ends meet. I know I have disappointed some moms and pops, and it hurts like crazy every time.
I don't know or care much about astrology, but friends who do tell me I wouldn't have as much trouble with this if I weren't a Libra. Maybe I should have been a Scorpion?
So take the stars as more of a general guideline, based on one person's experience. If you dine out frequently at different places, start keeping a record of the stars you would award each restaurant -- one for fair, two good, three very good and four excellent in the areas of food, atmosphere and service -- with the idea that everyone in town will have the opportunity to view and comment on your findings.
Last word: I will have some things to say in future blogs about the issue of appropriate attire in restaurants, but is it not a telling comment on today's culture to learn one has to get permission from the NFL bosses to wear a coat and tie to coach a FOOTBALL game?



Reader Comments 2 Total
BobInTulsa (6 years ago)
Your agony is understandable. I recall a restaurant critic in either Dallas or Chicago who avoided such stress while getting the message across.

If he had a terrible experience at an establishment, he would write something like, "We visited the Ptomaine Grill and Bar last week. Not recommended." Of course, he had to have one or two reviews as backup for column.

If that approach would work, put it in Extra Bites. The assessment is bloodless, but your readers, and the establishment, will get the message. If the proprietor cares, he/she can always ask for the reasons.
Mexifood lover (6 years ago)
The concept of stars seems impractical at my favorites restaurants: Mom-n-Pop Mexican restaurants. The essence for these places is food that their culture connects with.

Its not about presentation or ambience. Its about food plus the authenticity factor.

Your work as a food critique is based on a Euro-American concept of the dining experience.

Handing out star ratings to, say, a Costa Azul (East Tulsa), El Palinque (mid-town), or El Fagon (Owasso) is about as awkward as sending the classical music critic to the Flaming Lips appearance at Diversifest.

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Table Talk

Tulsa World restaurant critic Scott Cherry is in his second tour of duty with the Tulsa World. He was a sports writer during his first stop, covering college football and basketball. Since returning to the World in 1992, he has been the food writer and now restaurant critic and wine columnist.

Cherry Picks, the Tulsa World restaurant guide, is where you can best see all of his reviews, formatted for your phone, tablet or desktop computer. Check it out at tulsaworld.com/cherrypicks.

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