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Zagat lists Bodean Seafood among nation's 10 "surprisingly awesome" strip mall restaurants
Published: 5/23/2012 11:39 AM
Last Modified: 5/23/2012 12:20 PM


Tuna tartare at Bodean Seafood restaurant. Tulsa World file

Bodean Seafood restaurant, 3376 E. 51st St., recently received a big-time shout out from Zagat Survey, which rates restaurants all over the world.

Under the blog link at tulsaworld.com/zagat, in an article titled "10 Surprisingly Awesome Strip Mall Restaurants," by Jennifer Evans Gardner, the first restaurant featured was Bodean Seafood.

Here's what Gardner had to say about Bodean: "Most people know about the barbecue in these parts, so seafood in a strip mall might not be an obvious choice. Locals know otherwise. Lobster bisque, tuna tartare and Cajun-spiced Gulf shrimp are just a few of the standouts at this white tablecloth treasure in the middle of a busy strip mall. Fresh seafood, spices and more sold in the adjoining market."

Gardner noted that "video rentals, tanning salons and dollar stores are the kind of places you'll usually find in one of the zillions of nondescript strip malls that dot America. However, often times some of a city's best eateries are tucked away next to an unassuming Mail Boxes Etc."

The following restaurants (with brief comments from Gardner), made up the remainder of the 10:

Trattoria Grappolo, Santa Ynez, Calif. -- "Strip mall restaurants aren’t usually known for their wine, but it’s a different story in the heart of the Santa Ynez wine country, where Trattoria Grappolo offers a selection of 250 bottles – half local, and five with their own label. Situated in a Western-style strip mall, this place has remarkably authentic Italian food to go with that wine, too."

Le Bistro, Lighthouse Pointe, Fla. -- "Eleven years ago, Elin and Andy Trousdale bought a restaurant in small-town strip mall and hoped for the best. Since then, this affordable, but impeccable bistro once known for its early-bird specials has won 4 stars from The Miami Herald, a Zagat award, and was featured in USA Today. What gets people to come to the restaurant in such a location? Maybe it’s the bee pollen-crusted goat cheese salad, the frog legs. . .and of course, their famous Beef Wellington."

Todd's Unique Dining Room, Henderson, Nev. -- "We aren’t the first to discover Todd’s, which sits in a tiny strip mall near Las Vegas. The locals are all over this place, run by Todd Core. . .who quietly cooks up exceptional dishes such as togarashi-dusted rare ahi tuna, breast of duck with pomegranate red wine sauce and braised lamb shank."

Rabbit Bistro, Eugene, Ore. -- "Nestled between a Sally Beauty Supply and a Nature’s Pet Natural Food Store in this pretty college town is a chic surprise: a modern French bistro. Chef Gabriel Gil’s menu changes seasonally, but among his signature dishes is local chinook salmon with preserved lemon, arugula and malted milk."

Asanebo, Studio City, Calif. -- "Not every strip mall can boast a gourmet restaurant, especially in LA’s San Fernando Valley. Known as the place where sushi chefs dine on their night off, Asenabo lies somewhere between a pet grooming shop and a vegan diner. Halibut sashimi with black truffle, grilled Chilean sea bass, baby spinach and portobello mushroom salad and Alaskan king crab legs are just some of the specials"

Macaluso's, Miami Beach, Fla. -- "Third generation chef-owner Michael Dandier cooks up homemade Italian food from 75 years of family recipes, including 'world famous' meatballs and sausage, rich marinara sauce and nightly blackboard specials (there is no written menu)."

Locanda Portofino, Santa Monica, Calif. -- "If a strip mall on chic Montana Avenue in Santa Monica isn’t surprise enough, this authentic, regional Italian restaurant will be. In fact, it’s the valet parking next to a liquor store that first tips you off that something good may be happening here."

Juban's, Baton Rouge, La. -- "Once the Juban family home -- which somehow survived the building of a strip mall around it -- this elegant fine dining gem (which was also once a dollar store) opened in 1983 and continues to expand, taking over more and more of the strip mall’s real estate. It’s a good thing, because locals love the gumbo, truffle crawfish pasta and Hallelujah crab, to name a few dishes."

Katsu-ya, Studio City, Calif. -- "When chef Katsuya Uechi created crispy rice with spicy tuna years ago, he had no idea what a sensation it - and he - would be. Since then, Katsu-ya has opened and collaborated on the openings of multiple restaurants in the LA area."

Bodean Seafood's place on this list is significant in that few Zagat surveys stray into the hinterland and small markets such as Tulsa. Even on this list, most of the restaurants are at or near big population areas.



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Tulsa World restaurant critic Scott Cherry is in his second tour of duty with the Tulsa World. He was a sports writer during his first stop, covering college football and basketball. Since returning to the World in 1992, he has been the food writer and now restaurant critic and wine columnist.

Cherry Picks, the Tulsa World restaurant guide, is where you can best see all of his reviews, formatted for your phone, tablet or desktop computer. Check it out at tulsaworld.com/cherrypicks.

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