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I have seen the real El Paso
Published: 12/30/2009 7:03 PM
Last Modified: 12/30/2009 7:03 PM

EL PASO, Texas — Wow.

Few words can do greater justice to the past three hours.

Having finally gotten out from under seemingly endless deadlines — the Sun Bowl is now about 18 hours away — I was at long last able to experience just a touch of El Paso.

I have witnessed the most striking sunset ever.

I set out at mid-afternoon for a westward jaunt up Scenic Drive, the winding road that overlooks El Paso on the south edge of the Franklin Mountains.

I followed Rim Road, past a neighborhood of multi-million dollar mansions. (So that's where Sherman Hemsley really moved up to. No, really, the former "The Jeffersons" lead actor reportedly lives in El Paso.)

I jumped back on I-10 north to the Transmountain Highway, then cut back east through the mountains. "The Pass", which gave the city below its name, is a geologic fault line that cuts through the mountains. Ancient peoples and Old West settlers used to use on their journeys between water to the west and the desert basin to the east.

Today, more contemporary wagon trains — I saw a Corvette, two Mini Coopers, a Camaro, a Challenger and even a Ferrari — use it to enjoy their motor cars.

The air was warm and bathed in bright sunlight. The recent snow had melted, all but a few flakes on the north side of the mountain slopes.

As I descended some 2,000 feet and headed back south into El Paso, I decided to forego the hotel and keep driving. I was quickly back on I-10 heading west toward downtown. To my left was Juarez, Mexico.

Once downtown, I resolved to find the border. Not in possession of a passport, and not owning a death wish, I wasn't about to cross it. But just skirting back and forth on the Cesar Chavez Border Highway, looking at the double-wide, barbed-wire fence and gazing at the gargantuan flag of Mexico floating in the breeze was kind of fun. I found a memorial park nearby and saw an agave tree nearly as big as my rental car.

As the sun began to settle toward the Juarez Mountains, I eventually made it back toward downtown.

I noticed a bank of edgeless clouds rolling southward off the Franklins over the city, and as the setting sun intensified, the clouds, now overhead and thinning out, began to change to a brilliant gold.

As I drove eastward on Montana Avenue back toward the hotel, the sky in front of me darkened into a deep purple, just overhead it was a heavy blue, and behind me it was a trillion spotlights of pure gold. The clouds, now wispy and stretched like pulled-apart cotton candy, were awash in purple, pink, red and gold.

By the time I had reached my hotel, the 2.7 million citizens of Juarez down below had already begun to flicker and twinkle into their nighttime existence.

Wow.

— John E. Hoover

Written by
John E. Hoover
Sports Columnist



Reader Comments 5 Total

soonerman37 (3 years ago)
Then as I looked back into Mexico, I saw people being lined up against a wall before they were shot. As the Sun dipped beneath the western mountains, you could see the flashes from the muzzles of AK-47's.
rogerq (3 years ago)
The first time i went to el paso was in 1989 and got to town late at night. when i crossed trans mountain drive all i could see was lights. the next morning my brother and i drove around and being from GREEN COUNTRY i wondered why anyone would go there on purpose. 2 years later i was in the el paso police academy and i think the high desert mountains are gorgeous. the sunset you describe happens every night....
GusherBob (3 years ago)
Mr. Hoover, I spent two glorious years in the Judge Advocate's office at Ft. Bliss, over 50 years ago. I know all of the routes mentioned on your city sojourn.

It is too bad you did not have someone tell your about Ciudad Juarez. With some help you could have some fun, enjoy some culture of that border city. No pass-port, no visa, no nothing needed. There are restaurants where you can eat fresh veggies and salads. Music abounds. Take time to go to a Corrida (Bull Fight).

There is a lot to see and do if you have a decent host or tour guide.

Love your work.

Robert W. Brown
rogerq (3 years ago)
The district i covered as a patrolman with the el paso pd covered rim road, i had all around utep and the sun bowl. i was back there recently after being gone for 13 years and still remember it like the back of my hand
JS (3 years ago)
Robert, times have changed. No more border crossings without a passport, and with more than 2,500 murders last year in Juarez, few want to make the crossing.
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Tulsa World Sports Writer Guerin Emig has covered University of Oklahoma football and men's basketball for the Tulsa World since 2004. He lives in Norman, where he keeps the fact that he is a University of Kansas graduate on the down low.

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Tulsa World Sports Writer Eric Bailey covered TU sports before coming over to the OU beat. He came to the Tulsa World in September 2004 after working eight years at the Springfield (Mo.) News-Leader. He attended Haskell Indian Nations University and the University of Kansas, where he was a 1996 Chips Quinn scholar, a national award given to minority journalism students.

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